Balenciaga Summer Collection 2023: Paris Fashion Week in

The lights go out. The floor transforms into a swamp of mud and darkness. Models stomp through knee-deep, dark water — and the audience holds its breath. What sounds like an apocalyptic movie scene is the latest Balenciaga show on the Paris Fashion Week: raw, provocative, and beautifully unsettling. Balenciaga once again delivers a fashion show that goes far beyond fashion — and redefines the industry.

Overview hide

The Show: A Mud Bath as a Statement

The Collection: What Balenciaga Shows

Balenciaga Between Scandal and Genius

For Models: What a Balenciaga Show Means

Frequently asked questions about the Balenciaga show and the Fashion Week

The Show: A Mud Bath as a Statement

Those who know Balenciaga know: A regular runway presentation is not to be expected. Creative director Demna (civilian name: Demna Gvasalia) stages his shows as total works of art, blurring the boundaries between fashion, performance art, and social commentary. The current summer collection is no exception.

The location: a huge, darkened hall in Paris, whose floor is completely covered with dark sludge. No runway in the classical sense — instead, the models trudge through a muddy, dimly lit by neon lights scene that reminds one of the American hinterland: Lost Highway meets Haute Couture. For all those who are familiar with runway and catwalk tips for classic shows, this is a complete reinterpretation of the format.

The atmosphere: horror aesthetics meets luxury fashion

The stage design seems borrowed from a David Lynch film. Mist, fog, deep bass moans — and right in the middle: immaculate clothing made from high-quality materials that seems to defy the harsh conditions. The contrasts are deliberately chosen. Dirt and elegance. Decay and perfection. This tension is what distinguishes Balenciaga from other houses. Those who follow the development of the Big 4 Fashion Weeks quickly recognize: such a staging only exists at Balenciaga.

The comparison to previous shows

Following the legendary Balenciaga x Simpsons collaboration, in which Demna used pop culture as a mirror of society, the current show takes a darker path. While the previous show was colorful, ironic, and accessible, this one is deliberately threatening and off-putting — in the best sense. It challenges the audience to redefine beauty. Comparable energy can be found at the New York Fashion Week only during Alexander McQueen retrospectives.

“Fashion should never be comfortable. It should force you to see the world differently — even if the ground disappears from under your feet.”

The Collection: What Balenciaga Shows

Despite the extreme staging, the actual collection is surprisingly wearable — at least by Balenciaga standards. The summer line focuses on exaggerated silhouettes, oversized trenchcoats, monochrome looks in earthy tones and black, as well as material mixes of nylon, leather, and water-repellent fabrics. The German fashion designers in the industry are envious of the consistency with which Demna carries through a vision.

Key Pieces of the Collection

Oversize trench coats in dark brown and black
Glossy patent boots up to the thigh
Transparent rainwear over bodysuits
Asymmetrical dresses with mud texture print
Chunky platform boots — waterproof
Monochrome suits in khaki and stone grey

What connects the pieces: They all look as if they were designed for a world in which beauty is created under pressure — literally. Those looking for something similar at the Milan Fashion Week will be disappointed.

Color and Material Palette

The color palette is inspired by an after-rain earth palette: deep mocha, slate, petrol, weathered khaki, and pure black as an anchor point again and again. The materials are deliberately industrial — water-repellent, durable, yet processed with a couture-like finish. Also, the London Fashion Week has hardly any brand that combines roughness and finesse so uncompromisingly.

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Balenciaga Between Scandal and Genius

Balenciaga is used to being in the headlines — not always for the right reasons. The house has faced intense public criticism in recent times, and Demna was on the verge of giving it all up. The fact that he stayed and presented this show is a statement in itself. The fashion world, represented by editors from Vogue to Dazed, was unanimously impressed.

The comparison to other major houses shows how uniquely positioned Balenciaga is:

Fashion Brand	Show Concept	Target Group	Staging Level
Balenciaga	Performance art, provocative	Avant-garde, streetwear luxury	Extremely high
Chanel	Classic, spectacular	Traditional haute couture customers	High
Louis Vuitton	Pop art, collaborations	Wide luxury segment	Medium to high
Givenchy	Elegant, minimalist	Classic luxury customer	Medium
Rick Owens	Dark, sculptural	Fashion insiders, niche	High

What the table shows: Balenciaga plays in its own league — more consistent, riskier, louder than the competition. Anyone following the dates of the Fashion Week Berlin quickly realizes that European up-and-coming labels are striving for exactly this kind of energy.

For Models: What a Balenciaga Show Means

Walking the Balenciaga runway is considered one of the most coveted engagements in the industry — and also one of the most demanding. Models must not only be physically resilient (mud, darkness, uneven floors), but above all bring a certain aura: not exaggerated perfection, but character, presence, and the courage to be different.

What requirements models should have

Balenciaga consciously works with a diverse cast — from classic runway figures to unusual faces. Those wondering how to fulfill the requirements to become a model should know: At Balenciaga, personality and presence often matter more than standard measurements. Nevertheless, a clear posture and runway experience are extremely helpful. The exact model measurements and requirements vary depending on the agency and booking.

Strong stage presence and self-confidence
Experience on unconventional runways
Willingness to participate in extreme productions
Flexibility with looks and styling
Professional portfolio — model portfolio for casting

Those just starting out should carefully know the steps to become a model and build themselves up systematically. A solid foundation is essential before applying for international shows like those in Paris.

Size and diversity at Balenciaga

Balenciaga consciously focuses on diversity — a trend that has taken hold of the entire industry. The Minimum Size Model Agency still plays a role, yet especially avant-garde houses are opening up to formats beyond the classic 90-60-90 standard. Those who want to Become a model with curves now have real chances on international runways. Also, Become a model with larger sizes is no longer a contradiction to high fashion. A Model agency without minimum size can be a good first starting point.

Your Way to Your First Agency

The first step towards the runway leads through a reputable agency. Important: Anyone aiming for a casting at CM Models should prepare thoroughly for casting. A reputable model agency never charges advance fees — this should be an absolute exclusion criterion. More on this under Model agency paying money? and Model agency without fees. Anyone looking for an agency in Germany can find first starting points under Model agency Berlin, Model agency Hamburg and Become a model Frankfurt. Internationally, Become a model in London and Become a model in New York offer the next steps.

For a first orientation, it’s also worth taking a look at the Top 10 Model agencies as well as tips on how to contact a model agency. Those who don’t want to start full-time immediately can also begin modeling part-time — an underestimated option for getting started. And regarding payment: How much does a model earn? clarifies realistic expectations.

Ready for the next step? Apply now and start your journey onto the runway.

Frequently asked questions about the Balenciaga show and the Fashion Week

What makes the Balenciaga show so special compared to other houses?

Under Demna, Balenciaga stages shows not just as pure product presentations, but as artistic statements. The combination of extreme stage design, social commentary, and high-quality collection creates a uniqueness that no other house implements so consistently. The mud show is a perfect example: discomfort and beauty coexist without one canceling out the other.

Can beginners participate in a Balenciaga show?

Directly as a beginner? Probably not. Balenciaga usually books through established top agencies and relies on models with proven experience. The path involves building a strong portfolio, first castings with regional agencies, and a gradual buildup of international experience. Most important: professional preparation and a serious agency behind you.

What body measurements are needed for a spot on the Balenciaga runway?

Balenciaga has consciously worked with a diverse cast in recent seasons. There are no strict measurement guidelines as with classic couture houses. Nevertheless, an athletic to slim figure and a body height of around 175 cm for female models is common. More important are presence, character, and the ability to carry extreme looks without the person disappearing behind them.

Where can I track the next Fashion Week dates?

The four most important Fashion Weeks take place annually in New York, London, Milan, and Paris. You can find the exact dates and highlights in our overviews of the Paris Fashion Week Dates, the New York Fashion Week, the Milan Fashion Week, and the London Fashion Week. A compact overview of all four major fashion shows is provided in our article on the Big 4 Fashion Weeks.